Relay Switcher
Relay Switcher
Relay Switcher
Relay Switcher
Relay Switcher
Relay Switcher

Relay Switcher

£60.48

8 Channel MIDI-to-relay module

This module allows you to switch eight individual outputs using MIDI messages New firmware with enhanced functionality. An eight-relay module is included.

Each relay functions as an isolated SPDT (2-way) switch and can be used to replace a physical switch with a MIDI control (for example to replace a guitar amp channel switch pedal). The relays can also be used for power switching with high current capacity and can be used to drive large solenoids, motors, actuators and so on. Relays can be paired up for multipole switching, increased current capacity, or even making reversing switches for motors.

Each relay is switched when the device receives an appropriate MIDI message from a sequencer / controller / DAW etc.

Each of the eight outputs can be triggered by

  • MIDI notes (NEW with optional velocity range filter),
  • NEW MIDI continuous controller messages (with configurable value range filter)
  • NEW MIDI Program Change messages.

Switching lasts for specified duration and/or length of the trigger condition. The hold time can be modulated by note velocity or by a separate MIDI CC with settings from 10 milliseconds to 16 seconds.

MIDI SWITCHER is configured by MIDI System Exclusive (Sysex) files and a web form is used to configure it. Submitting new settings immediately downloads a Sysex file to be sent to your switcher. Try the web form at http://www.six4pix.uk/switcher/patch.asp
There is a standard 5-pin DIN socket for receiving MIDI data. This is optically isolated in accordance with the MIDI specifications, ensuring your computer / sequencer / controller keyboard is electrically isolated from the board when controlling it.

You will need a 5VDC supply of 500mA capacity to run the Relay-Switcher

The Relay-Switcher controller module comes as a kit and requires assembly by soldering.

The relay board itself is a standard part that I am reselling and is provided fully assembled and tested. The kit also includes a laser cut acrylic base plate to support the connected boards, together with all necessary mounting hardware.

Approx size 155mm x 60mm x 30mm (sockets and feet attached). The approximate weight is 180g

This kit ships with a microcontroller programmed with updated firmware (Version R2) which is shared with the updated MIDI Switcher and adds many new features as well as simpler programming via a web form and sysex files.

Downloads

The following links relate to the older firmware (prior to April 2020)

KIT CONTENTS

Relay Switcher Module

  • R1, R11 – 1K RESISTOR (x2)
  • R2-R9 – 100R RESISTOR (x8)
  • R10, R12 – 1.5K RESISTOR (x2)
  • R13 – 220R RESISTOR
  • D2 – 1N4001 RECTIFIER DIODE
  • D3 – 1N4148 SIGNAL DIODE
  • PWR, ACTV – 3MM LED (x2)
  • C1 – 47UF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR
  • C2, C3, C4 – 0.1uF CERAMIC CAPACITOR (X3)
  • C5 – 4.7UF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR
  • IC1 – PIC16F1825 MICROCONTROLLER (WITH FIRMWARE)
  • IC2 – 6N138 OPTOCOUPLER
  • IC3 – 3.3V VOLTAGE REGULATOR TO92
  • MODE – 6MM TACTILE SWITCH
  • 2 WAY TERMINAL BLOCK 5MM PITCH
  • 5 PIN DIN CONNECTOR FEMALE
  • PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD

Relay Module Fittings

  • 10MM M3 F-F BRASS STANDOFF PILLAR (x2)
  • M3 6MM+6MM M-F NYLON STANDOFF (x4)
  • M3 MACHINE SCREW 6MM (x8)
  • M3 NUT (x2)
  • ACRYLIC BASE PLATE

Relay Module

  • EIGHT OPTO-ISOLATED ACTIVE LOW INPUTS
  • DRIVE TRANSISTORS AND FLYBACK DIODES
  • CHANNEL ACTIVATION INDICATOR LEDS
  • EIGHT 5VDC COIL RELAYS (e.g. SRD-05VDC-SL-C)
  • SPDT CONTACTS RATED 10A/30VDC, 10A/250VAC, 10A/125VAC
  • SCREW TERMINAL OUTPUTS



BUILD INSTRUCTIONS

When soldering a PCB, it generally helps to solder lower height components first. This stops the taller components getting in the way while we are working, and it lets us hold components in place for soldering by turning the board upside down on a flat surface and letting gravity be our third hand!

We will start with the base PCB (Printed Circuit Board), as shown below

Lets solder resistor R13. This is a 220 ohm resistor which has a colour code of RED-RED-BROWN. Start by bending the legs of the resistor as shown

Pass the legs through the holes in the board for resistor R13 (Resistors do not have a specific polarity and can be soldered “either way round”).

Push the resistor flush to the board and bend the legs out slightly to hold it in place while you turn the board over to solder them

If you are new to soldering, please take a few minutes to check my soldering tips HERE

Solder the legs into place

Snip the legs nice and short

Add diode D3, being careful to solder it the correct way around as shown (the stripe is also shown on the symbol for the diode on the board). Do not heat the diode for too long when soldering – they are more sensitive to heat than resistors

Add the three small 100nF ceramic capacitors C2, C3, C4. These are not polarised and can be soldered either way around

Now we will solder the two LEDs. Each LED must be soldered the correct way around. You can identify the Anode (+) and Cathode (-) based on the length of the LED leads as shown below.

The symbols on the board indicate which way round to insert each LED

Now we’ll add the two IC sockets. Each socket, together with the symbol on the PCB for it, has a “notch” shown. This tells us which way round to solder the sockets and how to insert the IC into them

IC sockets can be fiddly to solder. A good tip is to insert the socket in the board, then turn the board upside down so that the socket is held in place by the weight of the board. Solder two outer corner pins so that the socket does not fall out of the board, then turn it over and check the socket is flush against the board (reheat the two pins and push it down further if needed). Finally solder the remaining pins.

Add the switch, making sure it is flush to the board

Now we will add the remaining resistors. These stand up on the board to save space, and due to lack of space most of the resistors are not labelled on the board. The following diagram shows the resistor values by location.

Start with the eight 100 ohm resistors. Bend these over as shown

Solder them one at a time starting from R2 and working downwards. The resistors should alternately face one way then the other (this helps stop their leads touching). The markings on the board show which way round to solder each resistors. The board should now look like this

Insert the remaining resistors:

  • R1, R11 – 1K (BROWN-BLACK-RED)
  • R12, R10(above R11) – 1.5K Ohms (BROWN-GREEN-RED)

Insert the rectifier diode D2 as shown. Make sure the silver anode stripe is located as shown.

Insert the voltage regulator as shown. The body of the regulator has a flat face which should match up with the shape printed on the circuit board.

Solder the terminal block (making sure it faces outwards!)

Solder the electrolytic capacitors, C1 (larger 47uF capacitor) and C5 (smaller 4.7uF capacitor), making sure you solder them the correct way around. Just like an LED the longer lead of the capacitor is the Anode (+). The Cathode (-) is also indicated by a white stripe on the can. The symbol on the PCB clearly indicates the Anode hole.

Solder the MIDI socket. Make sure that resistor R12 is not touching the legs of the socket.

Connect the board to the contact strip of the relay board

Note If you intend to isolate the Relay-Switcher power supply from the relay driver power supply you should completely remove the GND pin of the relay board before soldering.

Solder the Relay Switcher board to the relay board

Source Code

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